Gray and Gray Bread and Wine

Tbilisi, city of many histories .

We travel to the high plateau of Javakheti, a stark and beautiful landscape. Lunch in Dukhobors village, home to a Russian spiritual community exiled here in the 19th century, where food is shaped by memory as much as place. Convivial dinner at a local home in Nishgori village.

Sleep: Memoire Hotel, Kutaisi

We head for the fertile western plains: peaches, pomegranates, herbs and berries. Another facet of Georgia’s prolific table.

Wake up and discover Zugdidi’s central market, heaving with incredible produce, then spend the day immersed in Megrelian food culture, eating, cooking, laughing and telling stories with a passionate proponent of these ancient traditions, Marika.

Tea and wild Chanterelles

Back to the beginning, but changed. Full. We stop for lunch at Rdzlebi. We share our last dinner al fresco, at Shavi Lomi’s magical outdoor garden. Drink it in. See you next time.

This is not a tour built around hotels and attractions.